Introduction
The waterfall of the Braan at the Hermitage is the great attraction to some 200,000 visitors each year . It has been described as one of the most ingenious and pleasurable ornaments to rural scenery that can be beheld.
Location is near Dunkeld in central Scotland. Access entails an 8-10 minute walk along the bank of the River Braan. Dunkeld is about sixty miles directly north of Edinburgh.
The Hall comprised part of a ‘finger’ of landscaped garden which in turn was part of the nearby Atholl Estates. This is a large land holding under control of the Duke of Atholl.
Information on the Hall
The Hall is approached via a trail through a large grove of Douglas Firs which was planted in 1920. These trees originated in North America and will probably last another 300-400 years.
The river hurtles through the dark and deep chasm then under the highly picturesque bridge (c.1770) that crosses the river. Next, it runs black and silent into a pool. On the pool’s edges grows one of the tallest trees in Britain, a Douglas Fir with a height of about 200ft. Salmon are found in the pool but they have difficulty moving upstream through the falls.
Video clip of Falls of Braan
Ossian’s Hall sits forty feet above the bottom of the waterfall. It was constructed (1758) in such a manner, that the visitor, approaching the cascade, is entirely ignorant of the waterfall. The walls of the Hall concealed the waterfall feature.. In its original design, the visitor to the Hall would undergo a series of sensory “experiences”. Firstly a painting of Ossian, the last of his race, blind from age. He is lamenting to Malvina the death of his son Oscar:-
Ossian’s Lamentation
Darkness comes on my soul, O fair daughter of Toscar!
I behold not the form of my son at Carun,
Nor the figure of Oscar on Crona
The rustling winds have carried him far away
And the heart of his father is sad.
But lead me, O Malvina! to the sound of my Woods,
To the roar of my mountain streams.
Let the chase be heard on Crono;
Let me think on the days of other years.
And bring me the harp, O maid,
That I may touch it when the light of my soul shall rise.
Be thou near to learn the song:
Future times will hear of me!
The sons of the feeble hereafter will lift the voice on Cona
And, looking up to the rocks, say, ‘here Ossian dwelt!
Waterfall experience
Then the visitor was presented by a loud noise, and the whole foaming cataract before him/her. This was reflected in several (20?) mirrors, and roaring with the noise of the thunder:-
A gay saloon, with waters dancing
Upon the sight wherever glancing;
One loud cascade in front, and lo!
A thousand like it, white as snow,
Stream on the walls, and torrents foam
As active round the hollow dome.
Illusive cataracts! of their terrors
Not stripped nor voiceless in the mirrors;
That catch the pageant from the flood,
Thundering a-down a rocky wood,
Strange scene! fantastic and uneasy
As ever made a maniac dizzy.
When disenchanted from the mood
That loves on sullen thoughts to broad.
The Hall interior was decorated with finely executed Arabesques which captured visitors attention. It was originally decorated by a Mr.Stewart of London, a native of the Strath (valley) in which the Hall is placed.
Restoration of the Hall
In 1860 the Hall was blown up by local rioters. The mirrors were shattered but not replaced and remained in situ until the 1920s. The Hall was in danger of collapse in 1944 when the National Trust for Scotland acquired the property. It was then rebuilt using a design by Basil Spence (architect). Another rebuild was undertaken in 2006 with aim of retaining the original series of experiences. Doors reinstated and also the mirrors; the latter using polished stainless steel.
The building described above is not the true Hermitage (or Ossian’s Cave) which is situated a little further on.
More information
Dunkeld is a popular village in central Scotland with a long history. More information on Dunkeld together with a wide range of tourist information can be found in Visitors’ Guide to Scotland, ISBN 978-1-9161332-0-4. This publication is also available via Kindle.